Rear Panhand Bar

On to the rear panhard bar. I make them simple and functional. I build my panhards from 7/8ths heavy wall .188 tubing – the same as I use for homebuilt radius rods, drag links, and tie rods. The bracket on the rear axle housing is bent towards the top to align it with the single bracket off the frame. I use 3/8ths x 2 inch for both and set the axle bracket just past the center of the pumpkin by about 6 to 8 inches. Both ends of the panhard bar have urethane rod ends, one solid and one adjustable. When final assembly takes place, install the front and rear panhards after everything else is in place (loaded). If you don’t, it can cause quite a bind in the suspension.

Rear and front shocks are pretty much straight forward, since the frame is unloaded, I set the angle at 26 degrees. When the frame becomes loaded, the shocks will settle to 30 degrees and give a pretty decent ride. The more vertical the shock, the stiffer the ride will be.

Here is another close up of the rear spring mounted and the shock tacked in place. I used only one bracket, 1/2 in by 2 inches wide and whatever the shock bolt size is. In this case it is 5/8ths inch diameter. Also notice how I hold the rear end up and in place with my homemade stands.

This picture shows the panhard bar and the crossmember and spring perch for the rear end.

More detail of the rear, this shows the angles used for the panhard bracket on the rear end. I make these brackets in two pieces because it is easier to get everything true, square, straight the first time. If I were to heat and bend, I could wind up heating and bending several time before getting it the way I want it. I use to use the hot wrench method, but the two-piece method is actually faster and more accurate.

Rear Suspension

This picture shows the rear spring hangers held in place with a piece of ¾ inch all thread holding them the correct distance apart (figured on the bench with the main leaf, spring shackle, and the spring pivots, all bolted together and in a straight line. Measure from the mounting flange of the spring pivot to the spring pivot on the other side. I use ¾ inch all thread because I make the spring pivot bolts from ¾ inch grade 8 bolts. If I only used 5/8^th inch bolts for the spring pivots, then I would use 5/8 in all thread) I then level the brackets with a magnetic level and support the whole apparatus with a small bottle jack. Then I center the apparatus on the housing, mock the spring in place to make sure the center section of the rear end will clear and then tack the brackets in place. I never fully weld anything because I may want or have to change something later. A tack is easier to cut and remove than a fully welded bracket.

This is just a side view to help show the set up. Notice the vertical strap that I placed on the frame to the rear end to keep it at the correct height and position.

This picture shows everything in place with the spring mounting cross member in place and the spring mounted to the rear end.

On this car, I decided to use stock rear wishbones and keep the trick end that bolts to the rear-end altogether. I made a bracket to mount the rear of the wishbone to the axle from 3/8th inch plate, a front mounting plate to the frame from 1/2 inch plate, the rod end bushing from 1 ¼ round stock with 5/8ths 18 threads for the rod bushing which I also made. This is shown in my DVD. I lined up and supported the assembly with stands made from 1 inch square tubing welded to 2x2x 1/8th inch angle. Then I used ¾ inch all thread with a nut for height adjustment and the all thread has a piece of 1/8th in 2 x 2 angle welded to it. I have several of these in the shop and use them for all kinds of set ups from what is shown here to setting up my exhaust system. There is another bracket not shown than is on the other side of the rear bracket and at approximately a 90-degree angle so that the rear force on the wishbone is spilt in two directions along the axle housing.

Notice the c-clamp holding the rear of the wishbone in place.

Here is a close up of the front wishbone bracket, urethane rod end and the homemade bung that goes into the wishbone and holds the rod end.

Another shot showing everything tacked in place.

Frame Front

On to the front section of the frame.  One of the reasons I built this in sections is the fact that small pieces of tubing are easier to handle than a ten foot section – especially when I am doing this as a one man project.  The other reason is that there is going to be a round tube front cross member and it is easier to use a hole saw to cut the tubing than a torch.  Although I have used that method in the past.  Notice that the hole is off set to the top.  This is to accommodate the taper in the lower part of the rail that I mentioned earlier.  The tube is heavy wall – schedule 80 pipe.  This piece was actually scrap from a welding yard and was used for boiler tubes at a power plant.  It is good to use heavy wall tubing as opposed to thin wall.  Years ago I saw a  T – bucket that hit a chuck hole and the force just peeled the spring perch back and tore the cross member to shreds.  I’m a quick learner!  Also notice how the rails are aligned and held in place for tacking.  Again , use the pins to measure the distance to the holes on each side.  I can’t tell you how important measuring is on a project like this. 

 

Here is the front cross member tacked and partially welded in place.  The frame is upside down – notice the difference in material from the cross member to the top of the rail.  Again – this is for the taper  that will be cut later.

 

Frame is right side up and measurements taken again this frame is within 1/32nd of an inch of being square.  Not bad for a table top frame jig.

Time to get down to setting the frame at ride height.  Notice the stands used to hold the rear end housing , rear of the frame and the front.  The rear end is set so that the center of the axle housing where the wheel bearings go is half the diameter of the tires to be run.  Ex.  If the tire diameter is 28 inches , then the center of the axle will be set at 14 inches and the stand height built accordingly.  The frame height is up to you.  I always allow at least 11/2 – 2 inches for the frame to settle ( loaded ) and at least 3 to 4 inches for axle to frame clearance.  The angle of the frame is also up to you.  This frame is going to have a greater forward rake than most cars I build. This is the affect that I am trying to achieve.  Remember – this car will have a suicide front end therefore; I can have a greater angle on the front.  If I were running a stock type suspension , the frame would be higher to accommodate the spring and axle under the frame.

Another view showing the set up.  Notice that the frame is leveled from side to side.  If this is not done, all of the brackets will be off and the car will ultimately sit awkward.

I make all of my brackets , spring perches, and other assorted needed accessories.  The spring perches along with a lot of other information is shown in detail in my DVD video from Streetrod 101.  The rear spring shackles on the bolt end are cut down so that the head of the bolt ( grade 8 ) will not turn.  I  make a lot of things for my cars and wind up saving a ton of money.  Rods on the cheap are great and just as much fun and look just as good!!

Mocking up the rear spring using bailing wire, masking tape and spacers to take the place of the actual spring leaves.  The spring perches and axle brackets along with the spring shackles are all necessary in order to arrive at the correct distance for the spring to be installed.  When all are in place, the spring shackles should be almost parallel to the ground when installed.  This way when the frame is fully loaded, the spring shackles will ride at about a 45 degree angle.  After this is figured, set up the brackets to the axle and tack in place.