Side Mounts for Engine

After I played around with putting side mounts on the engine, I decided that the mounts looked to big and out of proportion. So as sometimes happens, I went to plan B. Plan B is to use front motor mounts instead. When using front mounts, one thing to consider is whether a mechanical or an electrical pump will be used. I’ve done both in the past but prefer the mechanical. Here is where the ram horn exhaust manifolds come in real handy. I supported and shimmed the engine and then removed the angle iron on the front.

Whenever I make patterns, I use chipboard that is purchased from an upholstery supply store. It is thicker than poster board and is still easy to cut and makes great patterns. Notice how the mount comes down far enough to clear the mechanical fuel pump.

This is a stand off shot to check whether I like the way it sits with the new mount pattern in place. If I decided that the engine was to high, then I could lower the engine and transmission. The thing to remember here is twofold: with the engine lowered, the transmission is lowered also – this throws off the pinion angle some, maybe not enough to worry about, but definitely something to consider. Second, the lower the engine, the lower the air cleaner will sit in relationship to the top of the cowl. I like this set up, so will run with it.

The mounts are made from 3/8 ths inch plate and are the same on each side.

The tubing for the urethane bushings (1 1/8th) is cut and added to the brackets and welded in place.

Patterns are made for the side mounts out of ¼ inch, mounted to the motor mount brackets, centered, and then tacked in place.

Here is a shot with all the blocks, shims, and jack removed. I think it looks great. Now on to the front axle. Notice how I support the front axle with the homemade stands. This will help me to set the caster that I use (4-6 degrees).

This picture shows what the axle looks like with a digital protractor mocked up in the frame and set to 4 degrees. For those who are really sharp, you will notice that this front end is from a different car. But that is ok. They are all set up the same, so it really doesn’t matter.

When I get ready to set up the spring perch brackets on the axle, I set the axle in a vise – level it and set the 4 degree caster angle. Then I set the spring perch brackets vertical to the axle using all thread to hold them the correct distance apart. Tack and go.

Mustang steering box

• Here’s the mustang steering box tacked in place – mounted on its side. I tacked a small piece of angle iron to the mounting bracket to help hold it in place.

This just shows a rear view of the box mounted to the frame

I drew the trans mount on the bench top so I could get the right angles for the center cuts. Inch and a half square tubing heavy wall (.188 in thick ) was used with urethane bushings being used for the cushion mount itself. The trans is bolted directly to a plate welded to the tubing.

Two 3/8ths 2 x 2 plates are used on each end of the mount to support the transmission mount.

Here’s a rear shot showing the mount and transmission ( empty turbo 350 case) all set up. Notice the plywood firewall in place to simulate the body in place. I screwed a small 2 x 4 to the plywood so that I could use c-clamps to hold it to the frame. I marked the position of the firewall when the body was setting on the frame the last time. That then becomes the reference point.
Another shot showing everything in place and the spacer blocks removed.

Front of Frame

Moving to the front of the frame, it’s time to set the engine and transmission in place. There are lots of ways to do this, I have probably tried all of them. The best way I have found to set the engine is to use a piece of 1/4in by 2 inch angle or 3/8ths by 2. Locate the lower front motor mount hole in the front. I only build with Chevy engines. If other engines are used , a similar process can be used. Right now - I am going to use side mounts to see if this is the way I really want to go. Under the pan I have placed some blocks to support the rear. I am going to use an early Mustang steering box mounted on its side , so I have to do some mock up to see if this is going to accomplish what I really want.
I’m also using traditional Ram horn exhaust manifolds because I think they look cool. I’ve set the body back on the frame to check everything out. As this is basically a high boy roadster ( only channeled 3/4ths of an inch) , I found that the engine set to low. Out comes the two by fours and now that looks better – engine manifold to center of the cowl. This type of set up allows me to center the engine in the frame and set the distributor to firewall clearance that I want. I usually set the engine so that I can put the meaty part of my hand – flattened out between the distributor cap and the firewall.
Now step back and see if the whole thing looks proportional . If not, readjust and check again.