After I played around with putting side mounts on the engine, I decided that the mounts looked to big and out of proportion. So as sometimes happens, I went to plan B. Plan B is to use front motor mounts instead. When using front mounts, one thing to consider is whether a mechanical or an electrical pump will be used. I’ve done both in the past but prefer the mechanical. Here is where the ram horn exhaust manifolds come in real handy. I supported and shimmed the engine and then removed the angle iron on the front.
Whenever I make patterns, I use chipboard that is purchased from an upholstery supply store. It is thicker than poster board and is still easy to cut and makes great patterns. Notice how the mount comes down far enough to clear the mechanical fuel pump.
This is a stand off shot to check whether I like the way it sits with the new mount pattern in place. If I decided that the engine was to high, then I could lower the engine and transmission. The thing to remember here is twofold: with the engine lowered, the transmission is lowered also – this throws off the pinion angle some, maybe not enough to worry about, but definitely something to consider. Second, the lower the engine, the lower the air cleaner will sit in relationship to the top of the cowl. I like this set up, so will run with it.
The mounts are made from 3/8 ths inch plate and are the same on each side.
The tubing for the urethane bushings (1 1/8th) is cut and added to the brackets and welded in place.
Patterns are made for the side mounts out of ¼ inch, mounted to the motor mount brackets, centered, and then tacked in place.
Here is a shot with all the blocks, shims, and jack removed. I think it looks great. Now on to the front axle. Notice how I support the front axle with the homemade stands. This will help me to set the caster that I use (4-6 degrees).
This picture shows what the axle looks like with a digital protractor mocked up in the frame and set to 4 degrees. For those who are really sharp, you will notice that this front end is from a different car. But that is ok. They are all set up the same, so it really doesn’t matter.
When I get ready to set up the spring perch brackets on the axle, I set the axle in a vise – level it and set the 4 degree caster angle. Then I set the spring perch brackets vertical to the axle using all thread to hold them the correct distance apart. Tack and go.
Here is an angle shot of the axle with the spring brackets in place and the all thread installed. The all thread not only aligns the brackets to the axle but allows the brackets to be centered from side to side on the axle. Remember to use the same size all thread that the holes in the brackets are otherwise you could misalign the brackets.
This picture shows a front on look at the alignment of the spring perch brackets.
Here is a close up of the actual way in which the bracket is held in place. A nut on each side holds the bracket in place and allows for accurate adjustment. So now you ask yourself, how do I get the all thread out after the brackets have been tacked in place? Two ways this can be done. One, is to simply cut the all thread in the middle and pull each end out. The other way is to use two pieces with a coupler in the middle and just screw the two halves together and lock in place with a nut or two and then do the adjusting at the ends.
